A tiled shower is only as good as the membrane you will never see. Get that wrong and you find out five years later when the subfloor gives. Whether it is a shower, a heated bathroom floor, or a kitchen backsplash, describe the space and local tile setters will quote the work.
The assembly matters more than the tile. A bonded sheet or liquid membrane over cement backer, a properly sloped pan, and a compatible drain is the modern standard. Curbless entries need the slope built into the framing, so that decision has to happen before demolition. Ask which waterproofing system a setter uses and whether they follow the manufacturer's full detail.
Large-format tile is unforgiving of a wavy subfloor, and Gresham homes over crawlspaces frequently have deflection and dips. Flattening with self-leveler or mud is often part of a proper quote. Layout matters too: starting from the wrong wall leaves a sliver cut in the most visible spot. A good setter dry-lays and shows you the plan first.
A kitchen backsplash is a one- or two-day job and the highest-visibility tile in the house, which is why cut quality around outlets and at the range hood is what you are paying for. Handmade and glass tiles take longer and need different setting material. Bring the exact tile to the quote if you can, because it changes the labor.
Electric mat systems under bathroom tile are popular here for good reason, since tile over an unconditioned crawlspace is cold from October to May. It needs a dedicated circuit and a proper thermostat with a floor sensor. Coordinate the electrical before the tile goes down, because retrofitting the circuit afterward means opening walls.
Describe the project once and we match it with vetted local pros who actually do this work — you choose who to hire, or nobody at all.
With a wet season that runs most of the year, a shower that never fully dries between uses will find any flaw in the waterproofing. Failed installs here usually show up as loose grout at the corners, a musty smell, or soft flooring outside the shower door. Those symptoms mean water is already in the assembly.
Local bathrooms of that vintage were often tiled over green board with mastic and no membrane at all, which was standard practice then and a known failure mode now. When that tile comes off, expect to find damage at the base of the walls. Budget for wall and subfloor repair rather than assuming a clean substrate.
Tile contractors need Oregon CCB registration; tile work itself rarely needs a permit unless plumbing or framing changes, which go through City of Gresham Development Services or Multnomah County. In homes built before the mid-1980s, old sheet flooring and its adhesive under the tile should be tested for asbestos before removal.
Labor for standard floor tile commonly runs $10 to $18 per square foot before material, with large-format, mosaic, and intricate patterns higher. A fully waterproofed tiled shower typically lands between $4,000 and $9,000 in labor and setting materials, plus your tile selection. Backsplashes often run $900 to $2,200 for an average kitchen. Substrate flattening, demolition, and repairs behind old tile are usually separate lines, so ask how those are handled if damage is found.
Full waterproof membrane, sloped pan, and he walked me through every layer before covering it. That is the part I could not have judged myself.
Dry-laid the whole kitchen floor before setting anything so the cuts landed where nobody sees them. Small thing that made a big difference.
Heated mat under porcelain in the hall bath, and he tested the element before setting tile and again after grouting. First winter through and the floor is warm instead of pulling cold off the crawlspace.
Look for grout that keeps cracking in the same corner, tiles that sound hollow when tapped, staining on the ceiling below, or flooring that feels soft just outside the shower. Any of those is worth investigating before you spend money on cosmetic regrouting.
Sometimes on floors if the existing tile is solidly bonded and flat, though it raises height and affects door clearance and thresholds. In showers it is a bad idea, because you inherit whatever waterproofing failure is underneath. Removal is the safer path in wet areas.
In showers and heavy-use kitchens, many homeowners find it is, since it resists staining and does not need sealing. It is harder to work with and costs more in labor. For a low-traffic backsplash, standard cementitious grout is usually fine.
Generally several days after grouting, since mortar and grout both need cure time and sealants need to set. Rushing it can pull tiles loose or leave you with hazing in the grout. Your setter should give you a specific date, not a guess.
Some coordinate it, many do not. Valve bodies and drains need to be set before the walls and pan are built, so if you are changing fixtures, that plumbing has to happen first. Mention any fixture changes in your request so the sequence gets planned properly.
Tell us the room, approximate square footage, and the tile you have in mind. Local setters will follow up with labor pricing and timing. Free and no obligation.
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